Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.